Kilauea and Black Sand Beaches: Four Days on the Big Island of Hawaii
With the ongoing eruption of Kilauea, the Big Island of Hawai’i (or Hawaii) has been a huge news story. While eruptions are inevitable on the island, it is still tragic for those who have been directly affected. However, seeing the awe-inspiring pictures of nature’s tremendous force has brought to mind the four incredible days I spent exploring that remarkable island a couple months ago. Hawaii (the Big Island) is a stark contrast to O’ahu (or Oahu), the most populated and visited Hawaiian island. Rugged and sparsely populated, the Big Island has a newer feeling to it...perhaps that’s because it’s the youngest of the Hawaiian Islands, created from eruptions. The green, smooth mountains of Oahu look nothing like the fields of igneous rock on the Big Island. It is a fascinating place to experience, and I know my travels will take me back someday. But for now, I’ll walk you through my four days on the Big Island.
Prior to arriving on the Big Island, I spent four days on Oahu (I’ll write about that some other time). After immediately falling in love with Oahu, I was excited to experience another Hawaiian Island - one that seemed to be well off the beaten path. After a quick 45 minute flight from Honolulu, we landed in Kailua-Kona. Gone were the gentle beaches with white sands leading to into the ocean of Oahu. The Big Island was defined by black rocks, and a much more rugged coastline. The small, outdoor airport is a breeze to navigate, and we walked right to the pick-up area where we got into a small shuttle for Alamo rental cars. For some reason, car rentals in Kona were astronomical, so I booked with points from my Chase Sapphire Reserve credit card (this card is incredible), saving me nearly $500 - that’s right, a four-day rental was around $500 - I’ve never paid that much for a rental! I booked an intermediate (so, a small-ish car), but they were running low on inventory, and asked if we’d like a free upgrade. Ummm...obviously, yes - a free upgrade??? Of course! We were given a huge, brand new, four-door Chevrolet Silverado pick-up truck (we named her Big Jenny). Even though this truck literally drank gas, it was so fun to drive, and I felt connected to my north Georgia redneck roots.
Big Jenny on the desolate highway near Mauna Kea
The Kona airport is about 20-25 minutes from the main village of Kailua-Kona, the location of our Airbnb. We stayed in a one-bedroom unit in the Kona Billfisher (75-5841 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona, HI), a condo community across the street from the water, and within walking distance of Kona village. We paid $560 for four nights, and the unit was perfect for us - a large comfortable bedroom, living room, kitchen and bathroom. The decor looked like a Hawaiian version of a slightly updated Golden Girls apartment. It even had a big lanai with a seating area - very Golden Girls chic.
View from our Golden Girls style lanai at the AirBnB
We decided to walk up the street to Habaneros Grill (75-5864 Walua Rd, Kailua-Kona, HI) because we were craving Mexican food. It scratched our Mexican food itch, but the food was just okay (if not for the margaritas, it might have been a failed dinner mission)! Before going back to our Airbnb, we stopped at the ABC Store (basically a convenience / souvenir store with locations all over Hawaii). We turned in early because the next day (Sunday, 4 February) was my birthday!
For my 38th birthday, we were going snorkeling - my birthday gift from Jimbo and his family in Australia. We were running late (arriving no later than 9am...on a weekend...especially on your birthday...is no easy task!). Our tour was with Sea Quest (78-7138 Kaleiopapa St, Kailua-Kona) in Keauhou Bay, and they provided an absolutely incredible experience. The weather was perfect - sunny and a bit hazy. Joining us on this expedition was a middle-aged Japanese couple, a college-aged girl from Australia, and a married straight couple from Minnesota. Our guide / captain was joined by an assistant, and both were so chill - living that Aloha lifestyle. We would be snorkeling in three locations along the Big Island’s western coast. Along the way, we saw a whale tail break the water (apparently, they migrate to Hawaii during the winter). At each snorkeling area, we saw reefs teeming with life. Countless fish of all colors and graceful, ancient-looking turtles swam below us. We were the only boat in two of three stops, which was a rarity, according to our captain. Kealakekua Bay (with the Captain James Cook memorial) was one of the snorkeling stops that was alive under the surface of the water - I was singing Little Mermaid’s “Under the Sea” the entire time (in my head, so no need to be embarrassed for me)!
Our somewhat unflattering post-snorkelling pic with the Captain James Cook Monument in the background.
Swimming always makes me hungry, so fortunately we were fed sandwiches, fruits, and cookies on the boat. Even though it wasn’t gourmet, at that moment, these were the most delicious sandwiches I’ve ever had. The 3-4 hour excursion was perfect, and I was excited that I did something I’d never done before to start my 38th year.
Later that afternoon, we decided to explore the western side island and drove to the Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (Highway 160, Honaunau, HI). For native Hawaiians, Pu’uhonua was a place of refuge where someone could be protected by the gods. The park is Huge wooden masks were along the shoreline (imagine the statues on Easter Island), and the park was peaceful, with lovely beaches and swaying palm trees. We then drove north on Hawaii Route 160 through some beautiful tropical neighborhoods before winding up at Kahaluu Beach Park, just south of Kona. Black rocks and dark sand give this small beach a very different vibe when compared to the white sand beaches on Oahu.
Statues at Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park
For my birthday dinner, we ate at Huggo’s hBAR (75-5828 Kahakai Rd, Kailua-Kona, HI), a Kona mainstay. Rather than eating in the dining room, we opted for a bar table just above the crashing waves. The ocean was loud, and the wind was blowing constantly - my ideal weather. The ship-themed restaurant with its wood and rope decor was charming. Tropical drinks, along with tasty appetizers, tiki torches, and the crashing ocean made for a beautifully memorable evening in paradise, and a birthday that I won’t ever forget.
Jimbo at hBAR with the waves crashing below.
Even though my birthday was over, we still had a few more days in Hawaii - how lucky!? For this particular day, we decided that we’d traverse across the island, and head for Hilo. We stopped at the Big Island Grill (75-5702 Kuakini Hwy, Kailua-Kona, HI) for breakfast, before heading northeast on HI 190. We then turned to the east on HI 200, skirting around Mauna Kea (the highest mountain on earth, at 33,000 ft.). Sloping mountains and volcanic rock gently transformed into light green grass, and the landscape got increasingly lush. There was very little to see on the drive other than views of Mauna Kea and some military bases. Driving up Mauna Kea is something I’d like to do eventually, but the road is said to be quite treacherous, so we opted to keep Big Jenny (our rental truck) safe, and not risk any fees from the rental company! Vegetation and humidity increased as we continued east and entered Hilo, the Big Island’s largest city. Whereas Kona is a charming, somewhat affluent, tourist destination, Hilo is more like a slightly run-down hipster enclave. Maybe you’ve seen movies from the 70s that were filmed in the Philippines? It’s an odd, obscure sub-genre, but it’s the best way that I can describe the vibe in downtown Hilo. It’s a small city that feels like it someone recently took a machete to cut the jungle down around it. There is such an unrefined charm there though, and I really enjoyed experiencing it.
We stopped for a coffee at Hilo Shark’s Coffee, a bohemian coffee house along the main drag in Hilo. We sat outside under the canopy of a gas station turned coffee house. The liberal bumper stickers and magnets that celebrated Obama and villainized Trump were reminders of Hawaii’s left-leaning politics, and further evidence of Hilo as a hipster heaven.
I have very little hair left on the top of my head, but we desperately needed haircuts, so I found a Supercuts on the east side of the city. This might have been one of my favorite haircut experiences (keep in mind, I’m basically bald). Both of our stylists were warm and talkative. I have no problem striking up a conversation, but these ladies were fascinated by where we had been in life. Jimbo from Australia, living all over Europe; me from Georgia, and living all over the USA, before Greece, and now both traveling nomads - they were so intrigued by our lives.
Funny thing is - I thought they had the most intriguing lives! These ladies had only traveled to Oahu - that’s it! Their entire lives had been spent on the Big Island, with a trip to Oahu - they had never left Hawaii, or been to the mainland. At that moment, I realized my great privilege - I’m seeing the world, and I have nothing but possibility and opportunity. But then, maybe it was these ladies that were privileged ones. They live on an island paradise - a place that many would hope to one day live. Everyday they wake up in this tropical place that is a feast for all senses. But maybe, paradise is what we make it - each one of us. For me, paradise is experiencing all that the world has to offer, but perhaps paradise is different for someone else. Regardless, I appreciated the opportunity to see life through their lens for the time it took to cut the very little bit of hair I have left!
Kilauea caldera from the Jagger Overlook in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
At this point, it was early afternoon, and we decided that we wanted to see Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We drove along HI 11, just north of Kilauea’s ongoing eruption. The fee to enter the National Park is $25 per vehicle, and it is well worth it. The visitor’s center has some nice information, and offers a good spot for a bathroom break, but what makes it incredible is seeing the smoke across the horizon. From random holes in the ground, smoke just spouts out - it really is a sight to behold. Kilauea is the main focal point - an impossibly huge crater with smoke coming out of it. It was impossible to comprehend the sheer size of this caldera. There are multiple viewing points along the short drive, ending at the Jagger Museum. We then drove over to the Thurston Lava Tube (Nahuku), and this short walk through a tunnel created by bursting lava was truly incredible!
Inside the Thurston Lava Tube at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
We then continued driving southwest on HI 11 toward Punalu’u Black Sand Beach. This was one of the destinations that I was most excited to see. When we arrived at the beach, there were only a few other cars there, and the sun was setting. However, the black sand was unlike anything I’d ever seen, and it was absolutely breathtaking. We sat and just took in the incredible scenery, watching a storm roll in. The drive back to Kona is only about 65 miles, but with the narrow, windy road and the rain, it took nearly 2 hours.
Sunset at Punalu’u Black Sand Beach
We covered the south and central parts of the island, so we were tired - but, we needed dinner, and we walked down to Humpy’s Big Island Alehouse (75-5815 Alii Dr, Kailua-Kona, HI). I ordered a beer and a Hot Turkey Club Stone Baked Sub, and it was one of the best sandwiches I’d ever eaten - hands down! It was almost like a sandwich-style calzone stuffed with turkey, ham, bacon, cheddar, mozzarella, and ranch dressing - basically my version of heaven. And the portion size was enormous. I hope to one day get back to Kona just to eat this sandwich again!
On our final full day in Hawaii, we decided that we’d drive to the north side of the island to see some beaches and waterfalls, and do a bit of hiking. Before leaving Kona, we stopped at 808 Grindz (75-5660 Kopiko St, Kailua-Kona, HI), a small, unfussy diner-style restaurant in a shopping center. Knowing that I wouldn’t be able to get Loco Moco as frequently after returning to the mainland, I ordered their variety with Roast Pork (one of my favorite foods). So, it’s basically rice (I got their fried rice), topped with roast pork, luscious brown gravy, and two runny eggs - a superb breakfast!
Roasted Pork Loco Moco with fried rice at 808 Grindz
Hawaiian breakfasts really stick to your ribs, so you have plenty energy for the whole day! We drove north on HI 190 toward Waimea, a quaint, charming town characterized by lush green fields and mountains on the horizon. In many ways, it looked more like the British Isles than Hawaii - it was such an unexpected landscape! We continued north on HI 250 climbing up the green mountains through stunning countryside. Horse pastures were on both sides of the road, and there was such a gentleness to the geography. The mountain to the east is Kohala, another of the five volcanoes that make up Hawaii, but it is extinct. It makes sense why this part of the island is characterized by rolling green hills since the violence of an eruption last occurred 120,000 years ago! Once we descended, we turned right onto HI 270, a narrow, winding road with thick vegetation on both sides of the road. Flowers, vines, and fruit trees lined the road, as it crossed gentle creeks and brooks shrinking to one lane - it’s how I’d envision the road to the Garden of Eden might look. HI 270 dead ends at Pololu Valley Lookout, a parking and view area where you can then continue to hike down to the beach and lagoon.
The hike is short, but quite steep. With the heat and humidity, it can also wear you out, so keep that in mind, but the views were absolutely worth it! The beach was a combination of rounded rocks and black sand - it was like stepping into a completely different world. Because it is a bit difficult to get to, it felt somewhat isolated and serene, like you’d found paradise at the end of the world. After walking around and enjoying the beauty, we hiked back up, and I was sweating profusely! Thankfully, there was a large water cooler in the parking area - it seems that some of the people that live there fill it every morning and leave cups so that the stupid people (I’m pointing at myself) who didn’t bring water can have some! I’m very grateful for these kind neighbors!
We then saw a small fruit stand in the middle of a beautiful, vibrant field called Fresh Off the Grid (4700 Akoni Pule Hwy, Kapaau, HI). This small food truck was an oasis, and the employees were incredibly kind! We had smoothies, and words couldn’t describe the incredible taste - all of the fruit came from right there. You could taste each individual fruit, but yet they all blended together in a symphony - it was perfection, and the small loaf of banana bread that was still warm from the oven was heavenly.
Driving south on HI 270 takes you through some small villages until you’re once again driving along the shore. We ended up at Hapuna Beach, a stunning, wide, white sand beach. We swam in the warm water, enjoying the crashing waves and sat on the shore until sunset, watching the sky change from orange to pink to purple.
Sunset at Hapuna Beach
For dinner, we ate at the Lava Lava Beach Club (69-1081 Ku'uali'i Pl, Waikoloa Village, HI), a buzzing restaurant right along the water. Live music and tiki torches were very Hawaiian in a touristy way. While the ribs were tasty, I felt that it was a bit overpriced, and that might be because it is a tourist destination. All in all, it was a great spot due to the ambience, and a fantastic way to end the day.
Waking up on the final day was bittersweet. While I was excited to begin a huge roadtrip of the western USA, I was so sad to be leaving Hawaii! We were flying out in the evening, so we did have the entire day ahead. Because the food was so good at 808 Grindz, we went again for one last loco moco (and admittedly, we split some pancakes too). My priority for the last day was to get to some beaches. We started out at Manini’owali Beach at Kua Bay (723990 Mamalahoa Hwy, Kailua-Kona, HI). It was beautiful but crowded! There was a good deal of golden sand, mixed with some black volcanic rock. Unfortunately, it didn’t offer the peaceful beach experience that we wanted, so we drove south to Magic Sands Beach, a small beach right on Alii Drive near the heart of Kona. We also stopped by the Alii Gardens Marketplace where I was able to find one of the Koa wood rings.
To end our time on the Big Island, we had sunset cocktails at the Royal Kona with some of our friends who live on the island. With unobstructed views of the ocean, it was a perfect way to enjoy our last Hawaiian sunset. Our friends then took us to Foster’s Kitchen (75-5805 Ali'i Dr, Kailua-Kona, HI), a charming second floor open air restaurant, right in the heart of Kona. A delicious beer cheese starter, and Hawaiian style fish and chips (with some of the flakiest fish I’ve ever had) was a great meal to top off a truly spectacular four day experience on Hawaii’s Big Island.
Returning the rental was easy, but it makes sense to be prepared for long lines at security. Even with global entry, the lines were incredibly long. I believe that more and more airlines are using Kailua-Kona, but the airport seems to be unable to handle the number of passengers. After opening an additional security line, it finally got a bit faster. Once inside the open-air airport, there is very little to entertain, and many restaurants were closed, so keep that in mind when you’re flying out.
Regardless, the Big Island is unlike anywhere I’ve ever traveled. It is rugged and remote, wild, unbridled, and yet genteel and charming. While I now have a life-goal to visit all of the Hawaiian Islands, the Big Island will always remain a special place to me, and I’ll be back because I still have more beaches, volcanoes, and waterfalls to explore!
